When it comes to car repair, most of us are totally clueless. Even if we took auto shop in high school, vehicle design and technology changes so fast that it seems like the only people who can keep up are professionals and extremely dedicated hobbyists. However, there is at least one quick fix that every motorist, regardless of occupation, age, or gender should be able to perform, and that is how to change a flat tire. Preparedness is the key when it comes to quickly and safely changing a flat on the side of the road. First things first, read your manual. It will have a step-by-step process on the procedure to use when changing a flat, and will most likely have several helpful diagrams. The next thing to do is examine the tire iron that comes with your car. It is usually located beneath a false panel in the trunk where the spare tire is also stored. Many of these tire irons are tiny, and look more look like a toy version of a tire iron than a useful tool. Using one of these tire irons presents difficulties. The technician who put the tires on in the first place was using a powerful air tool, and unless you're Andre the Giant or Hercules, you're going to have a hard time matching that power. One solution to this dilemma is to buy a bigger and better tire iron. They aren't terribly expensive, but other solutions are even cheaper. If you own a Club steering wheel lock, you can partially disassemble it by sliding one section all the way out and then inserting the tire iron into the end. Part of being prepared is making sure it will fit before you start driving. Another option is to carry a short length of pipe in your trunk. Fit it over the end of the tire iron and you will greatly increase the leverage you are able to exert. Carrying a large brick or small cinderblock in your trunk is often recommended for winter driving as it increases traction. Simply by leaving it there year round, you have a handy wheel chock (more on this later). Another item to carry in your trunk is an old blanket. In an emergency, you can't always choose a clean, gravel free surface on which to change your tire. If you show up for a big job interview in a torn, oil stained suit it won't matter much that you got there on time. If you want to ensure that you stay clean while changing the tire, it's a good idea to throw an old pair of work gloves in the trunk. Assuming you have done this prep work, the next time you change a tire by the side of the road you will find it is much easier. Next, we'll look at the actual procedure step-by-step. Read the manual. You already did this while getting prepared, but that may have been months ago and it never hurts to review. Retrieve all the equipment you will need from the trunk, including the chock, spare tire, tire iron, blanket and your piece of pipe. Chock the tire. Take your brick or cinderblock and place it behind the tire that is diagonal from the one you want to change. This is a step many people choose to skip when in a hurry, but it takes seconds and can save your life if the jack should give way. Place the jack and elevate the car. Refer to the car's manual for where to place the jack. There are notches cut into the body for just this purpose. If you have difficulty finding them, keep looking. This is where your blanket will come in very handy, as it will allow you to lie down completely if needed. Placing the jack anywhere other than in these notches can cause serious damage to the body, both the car's and your own. Make sure that the tire is completely free of the road surface before moving on to step 4. Remove the hubcap. On most vehicles, this can be accomplished quickly and easily by inserting the wedge-shaped end of the tire iron at the edge of the hubcap. Not much pressure is needed to pop it off, so take care. Lay the hubcap beside you with the outside facing the ground. Remove the nuts and place them in the hubcap. Take off the tire. Tires are considerably heavier than they look, so if you are a slight framed person, you must take extra care not to over balance. Place the spare tire onto the threaded bolts. Reattach the nuts. Screw them on by hand, and then use the tire iron to tighten them up as much as possible. Really put your back into it. Do not under any circumstances stand on the tire iron to tighten them up. If you have a big tire iron or your piece of pipe you should have all the leverage you need. Lower the jack and put everything back in its proper place in the trunk. Don't forget your wheel chock. Driving over a cinderblock can cause a blowout, and you have already used your spare. That's it. As soon as possible, get your tire fixed or buy a new one. Most spare tires are only rated for around 80 kilometres an hour, and none of them are meant to be permanent replacements. If you follow this procedure, and take a few minutes to make sure you are prepared before the next time you drive, your next flat tire won't be leave you frustrated. |
